Lost in Transition

The Tango

2009-02-16T11:51:00.000-08:00

Another Transition

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I can’t believe I am leaving Guatemala in three short days. It seems like yesterday that I was frantically rearranging items in my suitcase hours before my flight here. And now I am packing up my little apartment and realizing what few possessions I actually need to live a happy life. Although part of me wishes I could take many things back (the markets, my amazing teachers and friends, the climate, $1.50 breakfasts, etc.) deep down I know these things are best left here.

This experience has been incredible. It has been equally challenging and rewarding. I have felt frustrated, scared and guilty. I have also felt deeply happy, fortunate and at peace. I have learned some Spanish, established some amazing relationships and developed a better understanding of the world in which we live. Above all, I have felt much of the strength, independence, and joy I have been searching for the past two years return. It has been worth every Quetzal for this alone.

I wish I had more time here; there are more volcanoes to climb, more meals to cook and a whole world of “subjunctive” to be learned. But I am hopeful that I will return again sometime in the near or distant future.

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I often wonder what will become of Guatemala (and the US) in the coming years. This country has endured much the past fifty years. One of the hardest parts about my experience has been learning the direct role the US government had in igniting the horrific 36 years of Civil War.

While traveling in Semuc Champey last week, Ethan and I noticed that we were not greeted especially warmly in this region of the country. Then we learned that this area was hit especially hard during the war. We met a very friendly young man in his twenties who told us about his experience during the war. His father was taken from their village without reason and held hostage for 40 days. In an attempt to save her husband and father of her children, his mother went to Coban to beg for his release. A few days later he has killed.

In order to protect her three children and 2-month-old baby, they fled to the United States. (I couldn’t help but notice the irony that the United States was both their safe haven and the root of their need to escape in the first place). He lived and worked in US for several years, applied for residency two times and was denied. Forced to return to Guatemala alone, he has not seen his family in over five years. Now he runs a travel agency, diligently working in hope of one day being able to gain U.S. citizenship and live by his mother and siblings again. And I return to the United States in a few days with the hope that our new government will make it easier for such individuals to realize those dreams that we once had a hand in destroying.

Mis Maestros

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I had a some wonderful teachers during my time here. I have already mentioned Jose Carlos in my "Top Five from Xela". I also worked with Paty, a wonderful teacher at PLQ. Paty was the perfect balance of fun and strict. I always did my homework and my brain usually felt like it was going to explode after her classes, but I loved it. We told many stories and spent most of the five hours laughing. She and her sister (who reminded me so much of my aunt Patty) both taught at the school. They would joke with each other during class and gossip during break. I swear they were the Guatemalan Byrne sisters! It so fun and so comforting.

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Semuc Champey

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This is Supposed to be Fun, Right?

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As a last hoorah, we finished our 3 day trek at a zipline park at the lake. The first zipline was 100 meters and quite rapido! The second was 400 meters over a very steep valley. We had the option of "doing the Superman" with limbs free to imitate the feeling of flying. It was amazing! Ethan meant to videotape me going across and yelling, "Hi Mom!!" Instead we captured our Dutch friend, who more closely resembled a scared bird than Superwoman...

Trek to Lake Atitlan

2008-12-18T13:17:00.001-08:00

Hiking to the lake has been one of the highlights of my time here. Ethan and I (and 12 others) went with the company Quetzaltrekers, a non-profit organization who donates all money to a school and clinic in the area. The volunteer guides, Rachael from Colorado, Humphrey from England and Andy from Scotland were so much fun and really made the trip. We began in the small village Xecam just outside of Xela. The first section was quite steep, switchbacking through cloud forests with beautiful views of Xela, the Santa Maria Volcano and Tajumulco. By the sixth hour, we were tramping through cornfields and along a dirt road that led us to the village Santa Catarina, situated high in the mountains. After nearly eight hours of hiking, it felt glorious to take off the backpacks and sip on a Gallo in the quaint plaza. The municipal building served as our shelter and 1/64 of an inch sleeping pads served as our bed.

The next morning we rose early, ate at a local comedor and began another 8 hour day of hiking. We made our way through valleys of farmland and gazed upon the impossibly steep cornfields with awe. We eventually reached a river valley which is also the base of "Record Hill". In an attempt to diminish whining from trekkers, the guides have turned the climbing of this steep hill into a game, "See How Fast You Can Climb This Hill". Ethan finished 1.5 minutes shy of the record 9 minutes 45 seconds!
(I guess it helps when your legs are half the length of the mountain). The last part of the hike consisted of crossing a beautiful river for a couple miles. That evening we stayed in a village above the lake Santa Clara La Laguna with a local family. We were greeted with delicious licuados of fresh strawberries, a delicious dinner and marshmallows around a campfire. In an attempt to win the affection of the children, I kept feeding them roasted "Nebulitos" or "Little Clouds".

Before the crack of dawn, at 3:30 am, we woke up to hike to La Mirador in time for sunrise. We cozied up in our sleeping bags and watched shooting stars above the breathtaking Lake Atitlan, the birthplace of creation according to Mayan Legend. As we sipped on a Guatemalan mocha (instant coffee, powered milked, cocoa and lots of sugar) we silently watched the sun gift us with another day as Fuego erupted in the distance.

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More Photos from the Apartment

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Santa Maria Otra Vez

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Ethan, myself and our roommates hiked Santa Maria again and witnessed a very large eruption of Santiagito (see Top Five List below). As we finished our hike, we heard music blaring from the small village at the base of the volcano and walked into a fiesta for who else but....the Virgin Mary! She is very loved in Guatemala-I have seen close to 10 parades and/or festivals in her honor. However, this celebration was a bit different because it was clearly infused with Mayan tradition as well. It was very cool to see traditional dancers with ornate costumes and masks.

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Los Niños de Nuevas Horizantes

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Xela Top Five List

2008-12-15T12:50:00.001-08:00

1. Learning Spanish. My primary reason for moving to Guatemala has proved to be as daunting, rewarding and arduous as expected. There are days when I feel like I am progressing and there are days when I feel totally discouraged. In the words of my friend Andrew, "it is not easy to learn a new word for everything in the world". However, I have a wonderful teacher currently. Jose Carlos is famous for being "el mejor maestro en Xela". He is a joyful, fun-loving instructor who makes every class a uniquely wonderful experience. We have discussed the spiritual beliefs of Albert Einstein**, the machismo of cat-callers in the street, and various musicians who are missing body parts. He has told numerous jokes that I will never remember (or retell poorly and incorrectly) and I have translated songs by Bob Dylan. All this for $3.50 an hour. I can safely say it is the best spent money of my life.

**This is not an accurate gauge of my Spanish ability. Even though I can stumble through a "discussion" of religious philosophy, I still have trouble understanding a question from a 3-year-old

2. The markets. Guatemala is a country rich in produce. The little town of Zunil, just next door to Xela, is the vegetable capitol of Central America. As the director of my school says, "The carrots from Zunil are so big you can use them as posts for your hammock." The other day I bought two pounds of the most beautiful blackberries for $1. It is going to be a rude awakening to return to the land of "Whole Foods/Paycheck". I think the US needs more small neighborhood markets.

3. The colors. From the beautiful, intricate weaving of the traditional clothing to the hand-painted trucks, and the hilltop houses of turquoise, pink and yellow, Guatemala is vibrant with color. No twenty varying shades of beige here.

4. The volcanoes. The countryside here is quite dramatic. Mountains of trees rise out of the ground abruptly and spectacularly. Just outside of Xela is the volcano Santa Maria, that provides beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean and the ever-active Santiagito volcano. Ethan and I saw a huge eruption of Santiagito a few weeks ago. It sounded like "an airplane" to Ethan and "the voice of the Devil" to me. (Who's the practical one here?? Haha). The cloud of smoke was enormous and slowly blew over those of us on Santa Maria. Coming from Colorado, volcanoes are so surreal, existing in the same realm as unicorns and fire-breathing dragons (Sheila) or can easily be explained scientifically (Ethan). On top of the highest point in Central America, the volcano Tajumulco, one can see the remains of a Guerilla hideout camp from the war. There is still a huge antennae at the 13,845 foot peak and one whole hillside is scarred from a fire during the conflict.

5. Nuevas Horizantes. I have been volunteering at a shelter for women and children who have experienced domestic abuse. It was started during the guerra as the first safe haven for women and children in Central America and is now one of two safe houses in the country. The children stay at the shelter during the day while the mothers work in Xela in hopes of establishing financial independence. I work with los niños who are amazingly joy-filled and well adjusted considering their backgrounds. They love doing yoga and ask me to demonstrate "La Postura de Ocho Angulos" or "Eight Angle Pose" everyday. We have spent hours drawing, singing and dancing. And I have spent hours frustrated with my inability to properly communicate and discipline in Spanish, and above all saddened by what they have seen and experienced. I don't pretend that me being here for a few months and working with these children is going to drastically change their lives or the social climate that leads to such abuse and neglect. I want so much for each child to be safe, to be nurtured, to be educated, happy and healthy. Some days it breaks my overly-sensitive heart, but then I realize that me feeling sad and discouraged will do nothing to bring joy into their lives today. So I let go of some of my expectations, and do what I can today; donate my body as a human jungle gym, draw them silly pictures, hold them when they are upset and be grateful that they have escaped a life that so many women and children do not.

Tajumulca, Highest Point in Cental America

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Ringing the Churchbell in Zunil

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Pretty Skies

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El Cemetario

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Waiting for the Lancha

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The Xela Top Ten List

2008-11-21T11:16:00.001-08:00

Zunil

2008-11-04T11:16:00.000-08:00

Dia de Los Muertos is a beautiful ritual in Guatemala. Families adorn the graves of their loved ones with brilliantly colorful flowers. (The colors in this country continue to amaze me, from the flowers to the buildings to the exquisite trajes worn by Mayan women).

This time of year marks the end of the rainy season and the beginning of beautiful, Colorado-in-September type days. Wind is also common in November. One tradition during this time is to fly kites, known here as bariletas. In some towns, the bariletas are incredibly ornate and huge (see stolen internet photos above). The kites are used as intermediaries between the earth and heaven; a way to communicate with loved ones who have passed away.

My friends and I went to the nearby town of Zunil, where the indigenous townspeople honor their ancestors on the hilltop cemetery. As we stepped off the bus, we could see hundreds of bariletas flying in the wind, framed by the dramatic mountains and Santa Maria volcano. We walked up the narrow, winding streets of Zunil to the cathedral. On Dia de los Muertos, the churchbell rings all day to honor the spirits. Anyone is allowed to take over the ringing of the bell. As you pull on the rope, the bell rings and you take a moment to remember someone who has died.

We continued on to the cemetery where we witnessed one of the most amazing things I have seen. Hundreds of graves were covered with flowers and candles, from what seemed like the top of the world. Even though it was a sad occasion, it was also breathtakingly beautiful. I really respect the manner in which death is treated in Guatemala. Every year people cry, laugh, grieve, remember, sing and drink together. There is a feeling of raw emotion, which to me seems like the truest and healthiest way to grieve.

Zunil is also home to San Simon, a much loved saint despite being dismissed by the Catholic Church as pagan. Every year on this day, San Simon is moved to a new location. This relocation is cause for a huge celebration involving live music, dancing, praying, and-as we discovered-excessive drinking. We were the only extranjeros in the crowd and felt somewhat out of place, but were greeted warmly. In one room, a woman was dancing with San Simon on her back. (San Simon is now a life-sized doll clad in cowboy boots, slacks, a red vest and aviator sunglasses). The tradition is to bring San Simon an offering of Quetzalteca (the popular Guatemalan liquor). The Quetzalteca is poured down his throat, and is later emptied into a large aluminum bowl and sold as a sacred liquor. Unfortunately, we weren't able to stay too long, because some very intoxicated men wouldn't leave me alone, even while I was barricaded behind Andrew and Vince. It was an unfortunate ending to an otherwise incredible day.

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Celebration for Santa Maria de Rosario

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