Another Transition

I can’t believe I am leaving Guatemala in three short days. It seems like yesterday that I was frantically rearranging items in my suitcase hours before my flight here. And now I am packing up my little apartment and realizing what few possessions I actually need to live a happy life. Although part of me wishes I could take many things back (the markets, my amazing teachers and friends, the climate, $1.50 breakfasts, etc.) deep down I know these things are best left here.

This experience has been incredible. It has been equally challenging and rewarding. I have felt frustrated, scared and guilty. I have also felt deeply happy, fortunate and at peace. I have learned some Spanish, established some amazing relationships and developed a better understanding of the world in which we live. Above all, I have felt much of the strength, independence, and joy I have been searching for the past two years return. It has been worth every Quetzal for this alone.

I wish I had more time here; there are more volcanoes to climb, more meals to cook and a whole world of “subjunctive” to be learned. But I am hopeful that I will return again sometime in the near or distant future.

I often wonder what will become of Guatemala (and the US) in the coming years. This country has endured much the past fifty years. One of the hardest parts about my experience has been learning the direct role the US government had in igniting the horrific 36 years of Civil War.

While traveling in Semuc Champey last week, Ethan and I noticed that we were not greeted especially warmly in this region of the country. Then we learned that this area was hit especially hard during the war. We met a very friendly young man in his twenties who told us about his experience during the war. His father was taken from their village without reason and held hostage for 40 days. In an attempt to save her husband and father of her children, his mother went to Coban to beg for his release. A few days later he has killed.

In order to protect her three children and 2-month-old baby, they fled to the United States. (I couldn’t help but notice the irony that the United States was both their safe haven and the root of their need to escape in the first place). He lived and worked in US for several years, applied for residency two times and was denied. Forced to return to Guatemala alone, he has not seen his family in over five years. Now he runs a travel agency, diligently working in hope of one day being able to gain U.S. citizenship and live by his mother and siblings again. And I return to the United States in a few days with the hope that our new government will make it easier for such individuals to realize those dreams that we once had a hand in destroying.

Mis Maestros

I had a some wonderful teachers during my time here. I have already mentioned Jose Carlos in my "Top Five from Xela". I also worked with Paty, a wonderful teacher at PLQ. Paty was the perfect balance of fun and strict. I always did my homework and my brain usually felt like it was going to explode after her classes, but I loved it. We told many stories and spent most of the five hours laughing. She and her sister (who reminded me so much of my aunt Patty) both taught at the school. They would joke with each other during class and gossip during break. I swear they were the Guatemalan Byrne sisters! It so fun and so comforting.

Semuc Champey

This is Supposed to be Fun, Right?

As a last hoorah, we finished our 3 day trek at a zipline park at the lake. The first zipline was 100 meters and quite rapido! The second was 400 meters over a very steep valley. We had the option of "doing the Superman" with limbs free to imitate the feeling of flying. It was amazing! Ethan meant to videotape me going across and yelling, "Hi Mom!!" Instead we captured our Dutch friend, who more closely resembled a scared bird than Superwoman...

Trek to Lake Atitlan

Hiking to the lake has been one of the highlights of my time here. Ethan and I (and 12 others) went with the company Quetzaltrekers, a non-profit organization who donates all money to a school and clinic in the area. The volunteer guides, Rachael from Colorado, Humphrey from England and Andy from Scotland were so much fun and really made the trip. We began in the small village Xecam just outside of Xela. The first section was quite steep, switchbacking through cloud forests with beautiful views of Xela, the Santa Maria Volcano and Tajumulco. By the sixth hour, we were tramping through cornfields and along a dirt road that led us to the village Santa Catarina, situated high in the mountains. After nearly eight hours of hiking, it felt glorious to take off the backpacks and sip on a Gallo in the quaint plaza. The municipal building served as our shelter and 1/64 of an inch sleeping pads served as our bed.

The next morning we rose early, ate at a local comedor and began another 8 hour day of hiking. We made our way through valleys of farmland and gazed upon the impossibly steep cornfields with awe. We eventually reached a river valley which is also the base of "Record Hill". In an attempt to diminish whining from trekkers, the guides have turned the climbing of this steep hill into a game, "See How Fast You Can Climb This Hill". Ethan finished 1.5 minutes shy of the record 9 minutes 45 seconds!
(I guess it helps when your legs are half the length of the mountain). The last part of the hike consisted of crossing a beautiful river for a couple miles. That evening we stayed in a village above the lake Santa Clara La Laguna with a local family. We were greeted with delicious licuados of fresh strawberries, a delicious dinner and marshmallows around a campfire. In an attempt to win the affection of the children, I kept feeding them roasted "Nebulitos" or "Little Clouds".

Before the crack of dawn, at 3:30 am, we woke up to hike to La Mirador in time for sunrise. We cozied up in our sleeping bags and watched shooting stars above the breathtaking Lake Atitlan, the birthplace of creation according to Mayan Legend. As we sipped on a Guatemalan mocha (instant coffee, powered milked, cocoa and lots of sugar) we silently watched the sun gift us with another day as Fuego erupted in the distance.

More Photos from the Apartment

Santa Maria Otra Vez

Ethan, myself and our roommates hiked Santa Maria again and witnessed a very large eruption of Santiagito (see Top Five List below). As we finished our hike, we heard music blaring from the small village at the base of the volcano and walked into a fiesta for who else but....the Virgin Mary! She is very loved in Guatemala-I have seen close to 10 parades and/or festivals in her honor. However, this celebration was a bit different because it was clearly infused with Mayan tradition as well. It was very cool to see traditional dancers with ornate costumes and masks.

Los Niños de Nuevas Horizantes