Zunil

Dia de Los Muertos is a beautiful ritual in Guatemala. Families adorn the graves of their loved ones with brilliantly colorful flowers. (The colors in this country continue to amaze me, from the flowers to the buildings to the exquisite trajes worn by Mayan women).

This time of year marks the end of the rainy season and the beginning of beautiful, Colorado-in-September type days. Wind is also common in November. One tradition during this time is to fly kites, known here as bariletas. In some towns, the bariletas are incredibly ornate and huge (see stolen internet photos above). The kites are used as intermediaries between the earth and heaven; a way to communicate with loved ones who have passed away.

My friends and I went to the nearby town of Zunil, where the indigenous townspeople honor their ancestors on the hilltop cemetery. As we stepped off the bus, we could see hundreds of bariletas flying in the wind, framed by the dramatic mountains and Santa Maria volcano. We walked up the narrow, winding streets of Zunil to the cathedral. On Dia de los Muertos, the churchbell rings all day to honor the spirits. Anyone is allowed to take over the ringing of the bell. As you pull on the rope, the bell rings and you take a moment to remember someone who has died.

We continued on to the cemetery where we witnessed one of the most amazing things I have seen. Hundreds of graves were covered with flowers and candles, from what seemed like the top of the world. Even though it was a sad occasion, it was also breathtakingly beautiful. I really respect the manner in which death is treated in Guatemala. Every year people cry, laugh, grieve, remember, sing and drink together. There is a feeling of raw emotion, which to me seems like the truest and healthiest way to grieve.

Zunil is also home to San Simon, a much loved saint despite being dismissed by the Catholic Church as pagan. Every year on this day, San Simon is moved to a new location. This relocation is cause for a huge celebration involving live music, dancing, praying, and-as we discovered-excessive drinking. We were the only extranjeros in the crowd and felt somewhat out of place, but were greeted warmly. In one room, a woman was dancing with San Simon on her back. (San Simon is now a life-sized doll clad in cowboy boots, slacks, a red vest and aviator sunglasses). The tradition is to bring San Simon an offering of Quetzalteca (the popular Guatemalan liquor). The Quetzalteca is poured down his throat, and is later emptied into a large aluminum bowl and sold as a sacred liquor. Unfortunately, we weren't able to stay too long, because some very intoxicated men wouldn't leave me alone, even while I was barricaded behind Andrew and Vince. It was an unfortunate ending to an otherwise incredible day.