The Xela Top Ten List

1. Learning Spanish. My primary reason for moving to Guatemala has proved to be as daunting, rewarding and arduous as expected. There are days when I feel like I am progressing and there are days when I feel totally discouraged. In the words of my friend Andrew, "it is not easy to learn a new word for everything in the world". However, I have a wonderful teacher currently. Jose Carlos is famous for being "el mejor maestro en Xela". He is a joyful, fun-loving instructor who makes every class a uniquely wonderful experience. We have discussed the spiritual beliefs of Albert Einstein**, the machismo of cat-callers in the street, and various musicians who are missing body parts. He has told numerous jokes that I will never remember (or retell poorly and incorrectly) and I have translated songs by Bob Dylan. All this for $3.50 an hour. I can safely say it is the best spent money of my life.

**This is not an accurate gauge of my Spanish ability. Even though I can stumble through a "discussion" of religious philosophy, I still have trouble understanding a question from a 3-year-old

2. The markets. Guatemala is a country rich in produce. The little town of Zunil, just next door to Xela, is the vegetable capitol of Central America. As the director of my school says, "The carrots from Zunil are so big you can use them as posts for your hammock." The other day I bought two pounds of the most beautiful blackberries for $1. It is going to be a rude awakening to return to the land of "Whole Foods/Paycheck". I think the US needs more small neighborhood markets.

3. The colors. From the beautiful, intricate weaving of the traditional clothing to the hand-painted trucks, and the hilltop houses of turquoise, pink and yellow, Guatemala is vibrant with color. No twenty varying shades of beige here.

4. The volcanoes. The countryside here is quite dramatic. Mountains of trees rise out of the ground abruptly and spectacularly. Just outside of Xela is the volcano Santa Maria, that provides beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean and the ever-active Santiagito volcano. Ethan and I saw a huge eruption of Santiagito a few weeks ago. It sounded like "an airplane" to Ethan and "the voice of the Devil" to me. (Who's the practical one here?? Haha). The cloud of smoke was enormous and slowly blew over those of us on Santa Maria. Coming from Colorado, volcanoes are so surreal, existing in the same realm as unicorns and fire-breathing dragons (Sheila) or can easily be explained scientifically (Ethan). On top of the highest point in Central America, the volcano Tajumulco, one can see the remains of a Guerilla hideout camp from the war. There is still a huge antennae at the 13,845 foot peak and one whole hillside is scarred from a fire during the conflict.

5. Nuevas Horizantes. I have been volunteering at a shelter for women and children who have experienced domestic abuse. It was started during the guerra as the first safe haven for women and children in Central America and is now one of two safe houses in the country. The children stay at the shelter during the day while the mothers work in Xela in hopes of establishing financial independence. I work with los niños who are amazingly joy-filled and well adjusted considering their backgrounds. They love doing yoga and ask me to demonstrate "La Postura de Ocho Angulos" or "Eight Angle Pose" everyday. We have spent hours drawing, singing and dancing. And I have spent hours frustrated with my inability to properly communicate and discipline in Spanish, and above all saddened by what they have seen and experienced. I don't pretend that me being here for a few months and working with these children is going to drastically change their lives or the social climate that leads to such abuse and neglect. I want so much for each child to be safe, to be nurtured, to be educated, happy and healthy. Some days it breaks my overly-sensitive heart, but then I realize that me feeling sad and discouraged will do nothing to bring joy into their lives today. So I let go of some of my expectations, and do what I can today; donate my body as a human jungle gym, draw them silly pictures, hold them when they are upset and be grateful that they have escaped a life that so many women and children do not.